The Gorges de L’Ardeche
It’s Autumn 2023 and we’re driving the absolutely breathtaking route of The Gorges de L’Ardeche.
This simply beautiful region of France is one we came to in our first motorhome 20 years ago. Incredibly, the Gorges de L’Ardeche were to make such an impression that we were smitten for life. Those sensational landscapes, amazing views and dramatic drive, became part of the reason why motorhoming was to be our life-long hobby.
One of the first sights you see is the Ardeche river itself. This beautiful river winds its way through the Ardeche gorge for 22km of astonishingly picturesque scenery. Beginning our route from the North after first meandering along The Rhone, we’re ready for an exciting journey of high end views.
The Vallon Pont d’Arc
The region has a Mediterranean feel, as the limestone cliffs glisten off a clear blue sky. Although the Gorges de L’Ardeche are in a hot climate, the greenery of lush trees dominating the gorge makes for a pleasant break from the otherwise dry landscape.
Turning a corner beside the river brings our first glimpse of the big attraction, the Vallon Pont d’Arc. This natrual arch bridge standing 66m high spans the river, providing the most superb picturesque setting.
To put it mildly, this huge rock formation is glorious. Not only was it a Wow factor on our first trip 20 years ago, but it’s justifiably still one of the most magnificent natural sights in France.
Parking at Vallon Pont d’Arc
Here’s when we realise this area is a little different to our last visit! I think we’ve been here twice with previous motorhomes and parking then was very much a dusty lay by on the side of the road.
There was once a motorhome Aire attached to a campsite right next to the Pont d’Arc where we stayed overnight. Unfortunately, it’s now overgrown with gates shut and no sign of life. I wonder if it’s permanently closed or if it’s just because it’s off season and the grass and bushes have suddenly grown wild.
The lay-by where we once parked up and took photo’s overlooking the Pont d’Arc has gone too. Instead, there’s a modern looking viewing area linked to an easy footpath and large parking areas. Although the improvements are much better, it’s a shame to have lost the once basic, carefree feel.
We realise the parking areas are numbered, so we use Parking 3 which seems to be for motorhomes and is free this time of year. There are toilets here which are open, but overnight parking is forbidden apparently. The parking area is really quiet so we have our choice of places which is great. To be honest the other motorhomes here look like they may be stopping overnight.
Canoes and swimming
One thing that’s still the same is the incredible beauty of the Vallon Pont d’Arc. It is absolutely delightful, made even more so by a group of colourful canoes gliding beneath in the clear water of the river.
Whilst we take time to watch from the modern viewing area above, more canoes pass below along with swimmers taking a cool dip from the river beach.
The river below is a hive of activity, even in October, so you can imagine it here in Summer. We take a walk beyond the viewing area, passing the closed campsite beside the entrance to the beach of the Pont d’Arc.
A path on the opposite side of the road leads to both car parking areas for the Pont d’Arc and more beach areas. Then a rough dirt path leads down to the river after first crossing back over the road.
There’s another flurry of canoes passing by, whilst daredevil types jump off rocks into the river. The river beaches are busy with people sunbathing and enjoying the scenery. It’s quite simply beautiful.
Driving the The Gorges de L’Ardeche
After walking back the same route to our campervan at parking 3, it’s time to continue the drive along The Gorges de L’Ardeche.
This whole route is so much better in many respects than our previous visits, with clean underfoot viewing areas and parking along the route. It’s not long before we’re stopping to take a look as the river bends through the cliffs of the gorge. Stopping is one thing we do a lot of along the way, eager to catch the views on this route above the drama.
Further along the river a herd of goats appear from the cliffs, walking in front of us along the road. It’s a cute sight to see. As for the views, the dramatic scenery is as eye catching as ever and as the route lowers towards the village of St.Martin d’Ardeche, we decide to stop the night at a rather nice Camping-Car park Aire within walking distance to the small centre.
St.Martin d’Ardeche
A sudden chill in the air descends as we sit out in the evening. It has gone very cool, so it’s time to dig out our wool blanket for bedtime, a reminder that Autumn is here despite the warm day time temperatures.
St.Martin d’Ardeche is a lovely little village and the camping-car park is a great place to stop and relax. In summer, this former municipal campsite does have an amenity block, but this is closed now for Winter.
Setting out on foot, we walk across a bridge in the village to the opposite river bank and the medieval village of Aigueze. This tiny village is perched above the river and has a maize of narrow streets leading through its historic centre.
It takes us about an hour to reach a viewpoint beyond the village, where views across the river to the opposite bank and St.Martin d’Ardeche.
Our thoughts -The Gorges de L’Ardeche
Ending our drive through the superb The Gorges de L’Ardeche didn’t disappoint. Although we only took a day to drive through, it is somewhere where you can spend longer. Along the way are numerous campsites, many with lovely grassy areas beside the river in the most idyllic settings.
If you don’t want to stay on campsites, then the Aire at the end of our route at St.Martin d’Ardeche is really good. Not only is it spacious, but it also has a nice little village with a few small eateries and shops.
In our opinion this destination is a must do for France and off season is a good way to see the gorge without the crowds. We were able to stop along the route without any problem parking which makes the trip so much more enjoyable. After all, it’s all about the views, landscapes and fabulous drive through this incredible region of France.
