Santiago de Compostela
The night before arriving at Santiago de Compostela was an eventful one. It was one of those nights which will go down in the vanlife memory book for all the wrong reasons. So, here’s a little insight which won’t quite portray the awfulness of the behaviour but it will give you an idea!
Whenever we’re travelling, we always try and stop where the locals provide, simply because that’s really where they want you! Well that’s our long-term train of thought at least.
With this in mind, we scroll the Apps for a motorhome stopover area within decent reach of Santiago de Compostela. Several km south, we see the unassuming town of O Milladoiro which has a proper motorhome area beside a recreation ground which will be fine for the night.
Arriving late afternoon, we find it’s a really popular location, with motorhomes filling the spaces and the sun shining. Beside the motorhome parking is a large grassy area where families play and picnic, bringing a low key feel.
As you can imagine, up until now, all seems perfectly fine and so it was until about 1.30am!
Suddenly we’re on a race-track
We’re woken by the sound of reving of engines, each being louder than the last. Then comes the nightmare, as we peep out the back windows to see two gangs of youths lining up between the motorhomes. Next, the laughing and shouting starts as young spectators gather, cheering on the cars which screech off along the tarmac.
As their skidding skills begin to take effect, so does the even louder and more extreme behaviour. They race up and down, skid, race again and stop to discuss their driving technique every now and then. All this is happening right amongst the motorhomes, which are all Spanish with the exception of us Brits!
After a couple of hours, the youngsters must have got bored, tired or just fed up and disappear into the night.
In the meantime, two of the motorhomes have fled and the rest of us linger, unsure quite what to do. Is it worth a confrontation? Do we just pretend it’s not happening and try and sleep? Perhaps just watch and hope for the best? In the end the closest we get to the perpetrators is when a few of them appear at the side of the van to use the adjacent grass as their toilet!
Well we’ve known of a few racing incidents in the last 20 years of motorhoming, but this went down as the worst.
Onwards to Santiago de Compostela
With bleary eyes, the following morning we drive the short 7km or so to Santiago de Compostela.
We’re only doing a day visit here, so look for a suitable parking area on the Apps before. The parking area we end up in is about a 15 minute walk away from the centre and looks as if it’s next to a university or something similar.
Wasting no time, we hop out the van and set off on foot to find the main attractions. Soon, we’re in the centre and find the most incredible atmosphere in front of us.
Pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostela route with their large rucksacks and weary expressions give way to joy and tears. The scallop shell, the symbol of the route of Pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostela route are everywhere.
This shell symbol is one we’ve come across in regions far from here, resonating more than ever on the enormity of the walk.
It’s a humbling sight for us as bystanders.
Bagpipes and musicians play
The first sight of the massive square near the cathedral is quite something. Pilgrims sit on the stone slabs, a meeting place for those re-uniting with friends and family or waving farewell. The atmosphere is outstanding, with bagpipes playing and musicians in traditional dress walking through.
Inside the cathedral is a wonderful experience to see it filled with pilgrims, sitting and listening to the service. Here lies the remains of the apostle Saint James and the final stepping stone for those walking this pilgrim route.
Surrounding the cathedral are narrow streets, where walkers come towards us with walking poles in hand.
There’s music in the air, we can hear the sounds before we see the instruments of the musicians, who appear in traditional dress. We pause and watch them walk by, listening to their musical tones as they pass. Lots of people are following behind, walking through the streets welcoming the pilgrims.
Shops and sentiments
The shops of Santiago de Compostela are of course filled with souvenirs of the famous walk and pilgrimage. With no shortage of choice on the selection on offer, but also, some really nice other small shops selling a variety of goods.
After a good few hours exploring Santiago de Compostela, we decide to move on. It’s been such a lovely place to see and the weather has been perfect too.
Coming here makes you want to embark on part of this pilgrim route, perhaps one day we will. After having spoken to one such participant over an outdoor morning coffee, the special connection here becomes evident.
Our encounter with a pleasant chap from Germany, comes with both admiration and sadness. He begins by explaining how much the pilgrim route means to him, because not only has he been on several sections of the route over the years, but it was on one such journey the previous year when he fell ill.
It materialised his illness was in fact later diagnosed as pancreatic cancer, a terminal prognosis, yet one not deterring him from this city. He told us how he returns to Santiago de Compostela between treatments, just to keep the feeling of this place ever present. His story was truly moving and a true testament to the human spirit.
