The Rhone to The Ardeche

Our exit off the toll road brings us to Tournon-Sur-Rhone after a brief stop in Burgundy. Now we’re heading along the Rhone to the Ardeche where its famous gorge awaits.

Just east of Valence we pull over for the night at La Roche de Glun. Here we stay at a tree lined Camping-carpark Aire costing €11 on this former municipal campsite. The Autumn leaves are falling on this early October day and as usual in France, any signs of Summer season are feeling over.

Despite the quieter end of season, the Aire is quite busy. Next door is the municipal swimming pool which is empty ready for Winter, although, maybe it just never is open?

A walk beside the Rhone

La Roche de Glun is an unassuming town, forming a sort of island position within the River Rhone. There’s not much here but a walk around its perimeter from the Aire brings the realisation that it’s bigger than it looks.

Nonetheless, exercise fits the bill and a couple of hours walking beside the wide waters of the Rhone river is pleasant enough. We pass through orchards brimming with fruits, taking dirt tracks beside the leafy crops.

Idyllic picnic beside the water

Leaving the little island behind back in the campervan our route heads to Montelimar following the Rhone. There are plenty of towns, villages and stopping places and we choose a picnic spot beside a confluence in the river.

Opening the side door of the campervan brings a view of small wooden jetty’s leading to rowing boots moored alongside. It’s quite idyllic watching ducks pass by as we eat lunch under leafy overhangs of a tree.

Viviers and a Roman bridge

Soon, we’re on the road again, reaching our next stop for the night at Viviers, just south of Montelimar. This former municipal campsite is again part of the Camping-carpark network and has a somewhat tight feel. Viviers is in the Southern Ardeche region, an area steeped in history, dramatic landscapes and mild climate.

The Aire has tall hedges dividing pitches and although there’s plenty of shade, it isn’t really something we need this time of year. Temperatures are pleasant, but not severe enough to scramble for the nearest shady spot.

Mosquito’s are out in full force, so out comes the insect repellent to lather into my skin. Just like the previous camping-car park, although it’s a former municipal campsite, the old toilet block isn’t in use. Sometimes in peak Summer you can find some where the amenity blocks are open, these have both had a look of abandonment though.

Before leaving Viviers, we walk from the Aire to one of the main sites of Viviers, its Roman bridge. Stradling a wide, dry stoney river bed the long stone bridge is perfectly perfect despite its age.

Viviers historic old centre

We walk across the bridge and take in the surroundings which are feeling more Mediterranean now. It’s a pretty little bridge and worthy of a look. Afterwards, we walk into the historic centre, bringing a surprise find of tiny streets winding their way up hill to the most beautiful cathedral.

Somehow we weren’t expecting such a lovely old part of town. Not only is it lovely architecture but the views across the landscapes stretch for miles. It’s all rather fabulous, and nothing like the new part of town and its glum exterior, busy section.

The Rhone River – The Rhone to The Ardeche

Leading from the old part of town, a tree-lined boulevard takes us towards a port. Here, river cruises dock, bringing passengers to one of the few available ports on The Rhone.

As passengers return to their Viking cruise ship, we sit for a while and look out across the Rhone river. It’s a mighty water way carrying large river craft, a river of 505 miles in length, starting life in the Swiss Alps before reaching the warm waters of The Mediterranean.

I have to say, it’s been a delightful town to stop overnight and perfect en-route to our drive along the phenomenal Gorges de L’Ardeche. So, next time, we’ll be visiting the most superb landscapes of the wonderful gorge route, which first captivated our hearts on our first motorhome tour of France 20 years ago.