Plitvice Lakes Croatia by Motorhome
It’s May 2023 and we’re a few weeks into our trip. Leaving the motorhome parking at Senj behind it’s time to head inland to Plitvice Lakes, and a highlight of any trip to Croatia by motorhome.
Rain is threatening again – yes so far this has been a wet Croatia, despite it being May. By the time we reach Plitvice Jezera it’s lunchtime and the 90km journey from Senj on the coast has been an interesting one.
Bullet holes and destruction
The drive takes us through remote countryside, isolated villages and most significantly, the reminders of war. Incredibly, we see numerous empty buildings, some standing as lonely shells, their homely features long gone.
For anyone who was around in the 90’s and old enough to remember this horrific war, the reality of its aftermath, all these years later will be hard to contemplate.
At first we’re a little naive, after all, despite us remembering the horrific scenes from our TV screens, it’s really difficult to realise the destruction being right in front of us, over 30 years later.
Yet, there it is, the very real evidence of bullet holes across what were once peoples homes. Not only are the buildings a reminder of what went on here, but so many are just lying in a state of destruction. Roofs are fallen, windows blown out and heaps of rubble where walls once stood.
The Former Yugoslavia and war
This is the side of Croatia that is possibly unknown to many. Perhaps long forgotten to those who watched from afar, from the comfort of their homes. Maybe those too young or not even born then, will be ignorant of the raw wounds of these parts.
For us back in the carefree days of our early twenties, this war seemed so far away. In fact, I’d been to Yugoslavia, as it was then, as a teenager. Little did I know, what was to come. Tourism and its vibrant appeal was to disappear from this part of the World for many years. Driving this route has made me think about those years, our comfortable lives then back in Britain, so far removed from the hell war.
We pass old women, dressed from head to foot in black. They walk along the road and it reminds me of my early holidays in the 80’s. A hint of old times still quite evident in modern day Croatia. This region not only bears the scars of war, but it’s here at Plitvice where the war actually began. No wonder the remote, stillness has such a strong sense of sadness.
Plitvice Lakes Croatia by Motorhome – Parking
Our arrival at Plitvice Lakes takes us to Entrance 2, where there’s designated motorhome parking costing €10 per day. The parking area is large and is part for coach with the rest being a section for motorhomes and an area for cars.
There is NO overnight parking permitted at Plitvice Lakes.
Plitvice ís huge, which I’ll come to in a minute, in the meantime, the motorhome parking is really busy on our arrival. Luckily, we find one place free and quickly park up. I can only imagine how busy this becomes in peak season, bearing in mind not even the nearby campsites are open yet.
The payment is made at a separate ticket office beside the main ticket office. It’s just beside the parking area. There’s toilets, a cafe, information on the park and shop here too.
After a quick spot of lunch in the motorhome we make our way to the ticket booths. It’s then that we’re in for a bit of a shock!
Choosing the Walking Route – Wow – how long?
Tickets into the Plitvice Lakes cost us €23 each and we pay at the ticket booths. Then we make our way to the separate information office to find out where to go and what we do next.
The helpful staff tell us the options and it’s now that we get a bit of a shock! That’s because to walk the route more or less in it’s entirety, which is route H, will take us an astonishing 5 hours!
So, we may be a bit taken aback, but we’re quick walkers and as long as there’s enough time before the park closes, then we’re willing to give it a go.
8 Circular Walking routes
By now, we’ve learnt that Plitvice has 8 circular walking routes.
If you park at Entrance 1 then there are 4 routes to choose from, all marked Green on the information route.
Like us, if your’e in the motorhome parking of Entrance 2, then there are also 4 trails which are marked Orange.
Plitvice National Park – Background Information
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 and national park since 1949, Plitvice is vast. Covering 29,630,8 ha, the landscapes and remote feel is evident.
This series of waterfalls flow as lakes through the park, from the highest point of Seliski at 1278.5m, down to the lowest section of the Korana River at 368.6m.
The star attraction is the 78m waterfall of Veliki Slap. Not only is this the tallest in Croatia, but it’s the grand finale of our route H walking route.
Surrounding the lakes are thick forests, giving an almost lost continent feel to this magical natural wonderland.
Add the turquoise green and blue of the water and backdrop of limestone canyons, it’s a truly impressive environment like no other.
Walking Route H
Our walking route begins with a short 10 minute walk to a bus stop at Station 2. Yes, in order to access the main area of the park, we have to take a shuttle bus.
This is like something you’d find at a theme park. Boarding a large, panoramic bus after showing our tickets and joining a queue.
I can imagine, this can be super busy in Summer, so be warned! The bus winds its way through the forest, until we reach Station 3. This is at the top of the park and our start for walk H.
Here there’s toilets and a refreshment area along with picnic benches and lots of people. Unfortunately, the wet weather means lots of puddles and cloud too.
Now we’re ready to begin. Walking in this upper section of Plitvice where we’ll walk the initial 2-3 hour stage towards the lower section at P2. Confusing isn’t it?
When we reach P2, we’ll be taking a boat across the waters of Kozjak to P3. From here, the route will take about an hour towards the big waterfall finish.
Then it’s more walking, back to Station 2 and the shuttle bus ride back to parking area at Entrance 2. Phew, there’s so much to remember!
Boardwalks and Waterfalls
Our walk begins, and soon we’re crossing a series of boardwalks across vast swathes of water. Surrounding us are beautiful woodlands where waterfalls and streams flow. After the rain, everything is full with water, an abundance of natures finest in full flow.
Steps and dirt paths lead us further through the Plitvice park, where we stop frequently to take in the mass of turquoise water. The colours change depending on the light. The waterfalls are wide and fast flowing, cascading over the limestone drops and through greenery, it’s flowing out of every available nook and cranny.
The boardwalks are empty of people, but apparently in Summer the opposite can be said. Also, in the heat of Summer, these waterfalls are reduced to a trickle. Today it’s hard to imagine.
Boat Ride and a Big Finish
We’re beginning to get rather wet, not through rain but from the spray from the waterfalls. Visibility is through a fine mist of water, as the spray is so intense as the water tumbles. Impressive is an understatement.
By the time we reach the boat to access the lower lakes, we’re ready for a sit down. It’s a pleasurable 20 minute ride across the lakes, which gives us a chance to see the landscape from the water.
This whole park of Plitvice is completely stunning, extremely unique and exceptionally well managed.
But, the big finish is about to come, in the form of the park’s tallest waterfall – Veliki Slap.
First, after stepping off the boat, we take advantage of the toilets at this stop. Then a series of boardwalks beckon. The water is so fast flowing, gushing up beneath our feet, it’s a good job we have waterproof walking boots on.
Here, the boardwalks are a little busier, with more people in this section of the park doing the shorter walking route.
It’s a little bit of a shuffle in places and it’s frustrating after having the parks upper sections to ourself.
Veliki Slap Waterfall
The roar is monstrous, and the spray blinding as we approach the Veliki Slap waterfall. At 78m tall, this is the tallest waterfall in Croatia and it’s quite magnificent.
Luckily, the rain means the waterfall is in full flow, it’s mighty presence almost consuming us spectators.
We are now soaking wet from the spray and taking photo’s up close is difficult. There is water everywhere!
Looking out beyond this spectacle, is a calm contrast, as the waterfall tumbles off the cliff into the winding river below.
A little further away, as we walk up away from the lakes and Veliki Slap, is a viewpoint. This has to be the best outlook to see the waterfall and lakes from a distance. Quite simply it is stunning.
However, it’s also busy, as people just walk to here without doing any of the main walking routes. Again, in Summer, it’s probably packed with little room for taking in the views at all.
The bus back and our verdict -Plitvice Lakes Croatia by Motorhome
Now, we’re walking the relatively uneventful final bit of the walk back to the bus. By the time we reach it, the queue is really long and it’s a bit of a scramble to get on board.
We arrive back at the motorhome parking in good time. It’s so much quieter now in late afternoon, as most people have already gone.
Our verdict on Plitvice Lakes – sensational! Yes, it truly is well worth a visit and if you can do the longer walk then it’s a great way to immerse yourself in the Plitvice National Park and all it has to offer.
For us, probably better weather would have been beneficial. This is mainly because the colour of the lakes wasn’t quite as incredible under often thick cloud. Imagine seeing these lakes and waterfalls reflecting off a clear, blue sky – the colours would be phenomenal.
However, the rain does bring the benefit of seeing the waterfalls in full flow and this is quite magnificent.
Now, we’re heading back to the coast, as campsites here around the park aren’t open yet. Although there are apparently some low-key overnight options available, just check out the various motorhome Apps to find them.
First though, we decide to find an incredible abandoned airfield, where we get to park beside a relic with a difference. Join us next time to find out more.
