Morocco’s Ouarzazate to desert drive is an exciting prospect. It’s in our book, “1001 Best Drives To Experience Before You Die” so we’re hoping it’s a good one.
The previous day saw us explore Dades Gorge, before driving the Dades Valley. This is another superb route on this already extraordinary tour.
It’s late March 2024 and we’re on the road leaving Skoura, known as the village of 1000 palms. Our overnight stay has been on the local campsite, costing 100 MAD, equivalent to around £10. It’s empty of motorhomes, as peak season ends. Spring is upon us and Winter travellers are already back in Europe.
The gateway to the desert is the bustling town of Ouarzazate. We aren’t stopping on the way to the desert, instead leaving it for the return. The drive continues to the Sahara desert and end of the road at M’Hamid.
This latter section of the journey takes about 5 hours without stops, so it’s a long trek. Leading through the Drâa Valley, the River Draa stretches an incredible 1100km, making it the longest in Morocco.
Lunar landscapes – Morocco’s Ouarzazate to desert drive
Our drive makes us feel rather small in this vast, almost lunar landscape appearance. The scale of mountainous, rocky terrain spectacular and mountain pass winding upwards beside stoney slopes equally breathtaking.
The road is much better than we imagine, with recent improvements and major work still underway.
Fully laden trucks, motorbikes and everything in-between trundle along. Slowly making their way along the mountain pass, their engines lacking the power for speed. For us it’s a matter of waiting in line, driving along at the same pace with few passing places, but plenty of views.
Ancient Villages and Palms
Morocco has so many wonderful drives, it’s been such an experience in the campervan. Here, as we drive the mountain pass with 1531m Jebel Kissane in the distance, the views from the cab are extraordinary.
From ancient villages with earthy buildings to traditional crafts. Locals sell an abundance of offerings from the roadside.
The colours of the landscapes are vibrant, from reds to black volcanic rocks of the earth and mellow yellows of clay. Amongst the scenery, one of the most magnificent sights are the palmeraies. These green palm tree oasis spread tightly along valley’s, which are just beautiful.
The route is also known for pottery, but locals sell various items from rock crystals to hand carve ornaments. They wave us to stop and buy something as we pass, an endless supply of goods available.
Fuel Stations and lunch before Zagora
Fuel stations with shops and cafe’s are in abundance in Morocco with many new ones under construction. We find them rather useful stops, tucking ourselves away in a corner to eat lunch or stop for coffee.
After an interlude for lunch, we re-join the road towards Zagora. This traditional caravan route of yesteryear and transit trading town is bustling with activity.
It’s the kind of place where you can buy anything, as it’s the main overnight stop for this desert drive.
Tiny Street Zagora – Morocco’s Ouarzazate to desert drive
Like many towns in Morocco, no sooner are we approaching and a scooter glides beside beckoning us to follow.
There’s so much traffic going on around us, we concentrate fully on the driving. Pedestrians, donkey’s, carts, bikes and vehicles buzz through the street, there’s no room for error.
Following the Sat Nav to a campsite leads into an impossible tiny street, resembling an alleyway. There’s no way our Sprinter will fit, and we can’t see any alternative to reach the site.
Just as we’re reversing, the scooter re-appears. The driver beckons us to follow him into an even smaller road than the one we’ve left.
We’re unsure where to go, the hustle and bustle of the main road seeming so near yet so far.
There’s no alternative but to trust our instinct, hoping luck will follow, which it does. We breathe a sigh of relief as a slightly wider road appears. The scooter still beside us, the driver telling us to follow him.
Again, we go with our instinct, choosing to follow the frantically waving scooter driver. Another very narrow road appears, thank goodness for Nigel’s driving skills and a relatively small campervan!
Campsite at Zagora – Morocco’s Ouarzazate to desert drive
It turns out, the scooter driver is a bit of a saviour, leading us directly into Camping Paradise Touareg at an Auberge! Unbeknown to us, he works at this small accommodation and restaurant, which happens to have motorhome parking.
After showing us where to park, he leads us to a bar area where we show our passports and pay the overnight fee of 65 MAD, about £6.50!
It’s actually a rather pretty little place, with gardens of glorious spring blossoms, a traditional Moroccan restaurant with thick fabric cushions and plenty of kittens. Although with Rabies a risk, we try and stay clear of these gorgeous young felines.
A tempting swimming pool adds to the appeal, although it’s a little chilly for a dip. We’ve now got company in the parking area, with a few overland trucks and a couple of 4×4 pick up’s joining us.
A walk in Zagora and loud rumble
After so much driving, we’re ready for a walk, so take to the streets of Zagora.
It’s a busy town, with large souk and numerous shops lining the main road. Children run by with hands outstretched towards us, whilst a local chap instructs them to leave, offering us a tour of his art collection in the process.
Politely continuing on our way, we soon return to the camping area and a much welcome mint tea.
Just as peace and quiet is upon us, there’s a loud rumble and plumes of dust fill the air. We jump up and head outside, leaving the tea on the camper table to find out what’s happening.
We can’t believe our eyes, just a couple of doors away a whole house is falling to the ground. The crumbling debris tumbling to the ground, masses of dust spreading across the camper area and a commotion brewing on the street.
Locals assess the damage until dark, we’ve no idea what they’re saying, but the building is now lying in a heap of rubble. Luckily, no one is hurt – a close call and fortunate stroke of luck that no one was injured.
Reaching M’Hamid and the desert
Leaving Zagora the following morning, we continue on our way towards the desert. The drive is equally amazing, bringing us ever closer to the sands of the Sahara.
After a couple of hours we reach the end of the road at M’Hamid. We somehow prefer this area of the desert to the more tourist feel of Merzouga. It feels so much more authentic, laid back and less busy.
We’re able to park easily in M’Hamid. It’s a small, traditional village with shops, cafe’s and locals going about their business.
Donkey’s carry goods and numerous off-road vehicles pass en-route to the desert. It’s a nice atmosphere here so we stop for coffee at a cafe and watch the activities along the sandy, gravel street at our feet.
A brief spell of bartering follows for a pair of trousers. Making a deal of 130 MAD, we’re unsure who came out best, but both buyer and seller are happy.
Campsite stay beside the dunes
Driving back from M’Hamid along the palm-fringe road are a few campsite options. This time of year, there’s no problem finding a space, in fact, everywhere is more or less empty!
Taking pot luck with Camping Carrefour des Nomades (60 MAD, approx £6), on the outskirts of town seems as good a choice as any.
It’s a cosy, palm tree enclave beside the vast dunes and red sand of the desert. We enquire at reception and are shown the camping area, which is rather lovely and benefits from really clean and relatively modern showers and toilets.
A Moroccon mat for campers is provided to keep feet clean from the sand beneath our feet. It’s a great place to stay, we feel quite at home here.
Desert dunes and washing
We really need to do some washing, so set about a large hand washing afternoon. The good thing about the desert is the clothes are dry within no time at all! A hot breeze blowing the freshly washed laundry on our makeshift washing lines.
Whilst the washing dries, we check out the desert. The dunes are amazing, stepping out from the camping area which is also a hotel. Like many sites here in Morocco, it’s a one-stop accommodation covering all modes of travel.
Up to 5000 camels once came this way, passing through M’Hamid into the deep depths of the Sahara. This is also the last town before the Algerian border, a remote area of harsh landscapes.
The sea of sand of Erg Chigaga are a further 56km from M’Hamid, a place of remote overnight desert camps reached by excursion on camel or 4WD.
Starry sky
For us, the peace and quiet of our M’Hamid stay is unforgettable. The starry sky is unbelievably clear, so many stars, so little light pollution.
The darkness brings a whole new perspective as the tall palm trees cast shadows and moonlit night comes alive.
With only one other motorhome for company, we feel the isolation of this desert, end of the road location. It’s a wonderful experience, in a place so raw, the sand ever changing and landscape so harsh.
Morocco’s Ouarzazate to desert drive and this arid, remarkable setting has been one location we’ll remember forever.
Next time: We’ll be driving back towards Ouarzazate ready to take on the sights of Marrakesh.