Foz de Lumbier Gorge Spain
The Foz de Lumbier is a gorge located in the Navarra region of Northern Spain. Here we’re touring on a Summer campervan trip through regions skirting the Pyrenees. Last night after leaving the thermal pool pools of Lake Yesa, we found a motorhome parking area for the night, in the nearby town of Lumbier.
Now, we’re up early (7am is early for us!) and take the short drive to the car park of Foz de Lumbier and the start of this fascinating trail. Unusually for us, we’re actually first to arrive at the car park, when it opens at 8am.
By the way, there’s no overnight parking allowed here and day parking has a 3 Euro fee. Taking our pick of places in the large parking area, we choose a shady spot by a tree. No sooner are we putting on the handbrake, before a keen parking attendant makes his way over.
He’s friendly enough, explaining it’s card only – goodness, even these relatively remote parts are now cashless!
A disused railway track trail – Foz de Lumbier Gorge Spain
The other big attraction, beside the scenery, is a disused railway track trail running parallel with the gorge. Nowadays, the site of the old railway is a popular cycle and walking route. More precisely, the big attraction apart from the scenery are old tunnels along the way.
Back at the parking area, we find shady picnic areas and toilets, as well as a small refreshment stall. Just beyond there’s a sign detailing the walks, both are roughly 6km long, so nothing too lengthy.
We decide to take the marked uphill trail leading away from the railway path. Basically, we’re now on a circular walk instead of an out and back, which seems a bit more interesting. Utimately, we’ll be walking along the old railway later along the route.
The Foz de Lumbier is actually a long, narrow gorge of around 1300m long by 150m high. Here flows a scenic blue river between the cliffs, where rafts glide downstream and walking trails await.
Arid landscapes and Wildlife haven
We’re also ready for the heat of the day, despite it being early morning, it’s already hot here, as the full August sun bears down.
Continuing along the gentle uphill path of stone and dust, soon the track winds through bushes, before bringing us out onto a wide stoney plateau. There’s rocks, greenery and dirt tracks, few people and the majestic wings of Egyptian Vultures gliding overhead.
By night, expect to see foxes, wild boar and badgers amongst the undergrowth of Thyme, Ash and Poplar trees. Apparently, these parts are a wildlife haven, abundant in natural elements of earthy treasures.
Long Tunnels
Soon, a stoney path begins our downhill meander towards the flat dust track below. By the time we reach this old railway line, it’s actually quite busy, with cyclists and walkers enjoying the easy stroll in what is quite dramatic scenery.
Now we’re right beside the gorge of tall cliffs towering above a clear blue river, whilst rafting groups glide by along the rapids. Occasionally, it’s good to stop and watch these eager adventure seekers as the rafts beach on the shallows. At this time of year, the water levels are low, yet there’s still enough water for those wanting a thrill.
Then the sight of two long tunnels of blackness bring a brief relief from the strong sun. Our phone torches are at the ready, helping to lead us through the darkness. It’s such an interesting interlude along this super scenic route and a real insight into the railway that once was here.
To be honest, this region of Spain is a really magical place, full of dramatic natural landscapes and quaint villages. It’s these little surprise finds that make such memorable travels and the Foz de Lumbier is one of those special little places, really worthy of a visit.
Foz de Arbayn
After returning to the campervan and having a quick bite to eat, it’s time for another gorge, but this one is inaccessible.
It’s the Foz de Arbayn, a remote drive which embraces all that this region has to offer. Although the drive is lovely, it’s the Mirador or Iso viewpoint that we’ve come for. Sure enough, after parking up on a concrete plateau beside the cliffs, these dramatic views spanning the 4-mile stretch of river spring into sight.
Here, there’s Eagles, Vultures and numerous other predators flying, circling and hovering above. It’s a vast, empty and dramatic terrain and now we can see why it’s so inaccessible.
Roncal and Isaba
A stop further along at Roncal is purely to see this rather pretty village which is famous for its cheese. It’s worth a browse and is rather lovely, but it’s a few km further again before we decide to stop for the night.
At Isaba, the largest town in the Roncal Valley, is where we come across a free motorhome stopover, so we park up for the night.
There’s narrow, cobbled streets here, with plenty of cats and bars. It seems remote, far away from any hustle and bustle, a town surrounded by mountain life. By night, the locals are gathering at the bars, enjoying the cooler evening air of Summer under a moonlit sky.
So, it’s goodnight from our spot beside a small river, where a long row of motorhomes stay. When we wake in the morning, we’ll be taking a 20km drive to the largest forest in Europe – Irati. Join us next time, for this scenic route before walks and a very cold swim hole await.
