Coastal drive towards Lisbon

It’s late April and the sun is shining on this coastal drive towards Lisbon. We’ve been on the road for a while, but this section of the trip is all about Portugal’s west coast. A wild and remote region at times and one we’re enjoying very much.

After leaving the clifftop breakfast spot at Porto Covo, we’ve made our way along the coast again.

Next up we come across the nature reserve of Lagoas de St.Andre, a 500 hectares lagoon which is a spectacular area. There’s no other option other than to pull over, stop for lunch and take a walk.

After a bite to eat, we take to a marked walking trail which leads us through a pine forest where wild flowers and sandy tracks meander through large dunes.

This area is full of trails along with long, windswept beaches of white sands. These beaches being particularly impressive, remote in feel and utterly unspoiled in appearance.

The historic town of Sines

Driving along brings our next stop in the historic town of Sines. There’s plenty of on street parking along the sweeping promenade making this spring visit easy enough.

There’s few tourists this time of year, so we feel we have everywhere to ourselves, which is a bonus.

Sines, with its long bay and hilltop old town is the birthplace of the 15th century explorer, Vasco da Gama. He was the first explorer to find a sea route to the east, and a large statue looking out to sea commemorates his accomplishments.

Not only does the elevated old town have fine views, but there’s a castle too and pleasant outlook.

Exclusive Troia Peninsula

Continuing along the wild coast, there’s options to explore one way roads and tracks taking us to various beaches.

An overnight stay awaits at a free motorhome parking in the coastal town of Caravalhal. We leave shortly after breakfast, soon finding ourselves at more beaches along this long coastal stretch.

Then we arrive at the long thin Troia Peninsula, thinking we can pull over and take a look. This turns out to be an exclusive stretch of coast. There’s few access points amongst the gated developments and holiday resorts.

The dead end road leads to more accommodation, some high rise, and a marina where a ferry connects to the opposite coast at Setubal.

Luckily the road along the Troia peninsula is deserted. There’s no one about this time of year it seems, making it easier to turn round and head back out.

Wildlife reserves

Overall, the area on this peninsula is much more inaccessible than we thought, although the holiday complexes of deluxe accommodation are still closed for winter, the unpopulated feel doesn’t provide any more options to explore in the van.

It’s been a good opportunity to take a look along here though, where wildlife reserves and marsh and reeds of the Sado River and estuary provide a natural outlook.

We’re unsure how long this coastal drive towards Lisbon is going to be and as usual our planning is somewhat lacking. With this in mind, you’ll have an idea of our kind of van travels, preferring a free-style approach, just seeing where the road takes us and deciding when to stop as it feels right.

Traditional fishing huts on stilts

At small village of Comporta just beyond the peninsula, we find a remarkable sight. Here are traditional fishing huts on stilts which are fascinating to see.

Built out of wood, they almost look a little delicate and perhaps some are! Nonetheless, we take a walk along the raised boardwalks linking the wooden huts which are in various states of repair.

The position on the Rio Sado, brings plenty of birdlife. Luckily, there’s no shortage as they wade in the muddy estuary on our low tide visit.

Alcacer do Sal – Coastal drive towards Lisbon

Back on the road, our next stop is at the riverside town of Alcacer do Sal. There’s plenty of parking beside a footbridge, linking one side of the river to the old town and castle.

It’s a nice place to take a look, with cobble streets leading to the top of the old town. Here we find fine views over the river, making the walk up worth it.

Setubal and a mountain drive

We’re on the road again, and next up is the city of Setubal. But, we decide not to stop, why I’m unsure!

Before we know it, we’re on a mountain road above town, amongst green vegetation of the Serra da Arrabida mountains. Needless to say, it’s quite beautiful.

Luckily, there’s a lay-by or two where we can pull over and enjoy the scenery. The outlook across the turquoise sea and white sand banks of the shallows is stunning. Beyond is the Tróia Peninsula where we’ve just driven and seeing it from above is quite a different experience. The view is beautiful.

A very tight turn

Sometimes on our travels, we have to make a spilt decision. One such ‘do or don’t we’ moment comes next!

The harbour of Portent da Arrabida is supposedly beautiful, but the descent along its access road is perhaps not quite so appealing.

Not only is it hilly, but narrow and unbeknown to us, there’s a very tight bend in the road. We make it so far when we come to a traffic light system, the kind which is for a 1-way flow into this small harbour hamlet.

We wait our turn and as the lights turn to green we make our move. There’s a bend in the road and it’s tight but we make it, emerging into a dead end car park which is full.

The area is small, we’re unable to park and turning around is tight. I hop out to take a quick photo as it really is quite gorgeous here, a quaint kind of place with small jetty and clear sea. Back in the passenger seat, it’s time to wait again at the traffic light system, but this same way out looks much tighter than it did on the way down.

Somehow, with some excellent driving and luck of there being no other traffic in our way, we make it up the hill and back onto the main mountain road unscathed.

Motorhome parking at Aldi

After our nervy close call and fear of it getting late, we look for a place to stop the night.

We were going to stop at the resort of Sesimbra, but parking proves too difficult and before we know it, we’re on a rugged dirt track up out of town.

By now it’s getting dark and it’s beginning to rain. Motorhome parking areas along this coast aren’t plentiful and we know it’s quite strict in Portugal, so don’t want a fine or be moved on.

Instead at a coastal resort named Aroeira, despite numerous empty parking areas near or on the beach, we decide to play it safe.

Thankfully the local Aldi has dedicated motorhome parking bays and we choose one to spend the night.

The downside, it’s noisy! As deliveries and early bird shoppers arrive, we’re up and out prompt the next morning, which is just as well, because we’re heading to Lisbon!

A disappointment – Coastal drive towards Lisbon

We have high hopes for our next stretch of Portugal’s coast on the approach to Lisbon. Unfortunately, this turns out to be a bit of a disappointment.

Maybe off season travel doesn’t help, when beach resorts and accommodation are empty, there’s always a bit of a depressing feel!

The Costa da Caparica and town of the same name has miles of long sandy beach with sand dunes running parallel to a main road.

We take a few tracks off into parking areas but these are a bit rough around the edges, especially so with litter and fly tipping items.

Nonetheless we stop for a coffee in the camper, the Atlantic being out of sight, hidden behind the wall of sand dunes. As for the resort town itself, tall buildings line the streets and rain has begun, so we give it a miss.

Instead we drive on towards Lisbon, to a motorhome parking area at Almada, which we’re hoping to use as our base to visit Portugal’s capital city.

More on Lisbon next time! Thanks for reading!