A surprise find in La Ciotat

It’s September and we’re driving the scenic drive of the Route des Cretes from Cassis in the South of France. Our destination is one we’ve driven through before, but never stopped. Little do we know, we’re soon in for a surprise find in La Ciotat, which is at the end of the route.

This gorgeous harbour town soon reveals far more than we knew, leaving us to ask ‘why we haven’t stayed here before’?

Cassis and La Ciotat

Cassis and La Ciotat are two beautiful French resorts to the East of Marseille, with the scenic cliff drive of the Route des Cretes connecting the two.

The views are superb, with plenty of panoramas looking out towards the harbour town of Cassis. There’s picture perfect blue sea and a glow of the sun on the water, whilst endless pine trees follow the winding road.

Although the Route des Cretes is a drive we’ve done several times over the years, we’ve never been able to find a parking place in La Ciotat. This time, we’re determined to find somewhere, and we know from experience it’s going to have to be a campsite.

Cassis on the other hand is a little easier, a place we’ve explored many times. This is mainly thanks to a basic Motorhome Aire on the edge of town. However, first timers to Cassis, be aware. For those venturing further into town, it can be a nightmare and one we stay away from!

It may be worth mentioning there’s a campsite in Cassis. We think it’s a bit pricey and rather basic for the money. Having said that, we have taken a pitch here a couple of times and it’s been fine for visiting the town and walks of its coastal Calanques.

The Mistral Blows

It’s so windy today, as the Mistral blows and dust fills the air. We’re holding onto our doors stepping out of the campervan, hoping the gusts ease.

Approaching La Ciotat is a familiar road. Usually we drive through the town onto a long seafront. It’s the kind of place which can be busy with some narrow streets. Once on the seafront, a glimpse of a large port sign ‘La Ciotat’ reminds us where we are.

Campsite stay

We pass a campsite in town after coming from a laundry and decide to give it a try. Approaching down a long drive, the campsite has fencing surrounding the perimeter and a barrier entry which is down. It’s siesta time, so there’s no one in reception to open the barrier. Luckily, someone appears from the site and we’re able to drive in and wait.

Camping la Sauge has a choice of empty pitches and we opt for one close to the entrance. There’s plenty of shade available from tall trees but this time of year, we want sun to warm us up.

This is a very traditional French campsite, one overdue a refurbishment, but its location within walking distance of town makes up for the lack of investment.

Although there’s a toilet block and showers, they aren’t too appealing, perhaps made worse but the constant dust blowing in.

We’re happy to stay for a couple of nights, which costs us €49 for 2 nights without electric.

Exploring La Ciotat on foot

We’re soon off exploring La Ciotat on foot from the campsite. After about 15 minutes we reach the pretty waterfront harbour and old port.

The harbour is quite large with boats along the quay and a promenade walkway as well as the working port in the background.

There’s a chill in the air, so we’re soon layering up to keep warm. Narrow streets weave between tall buildings of subtle colours and plenty of small shops. Beyond the harbour are stretches of beach which seem to go on for miles.

Unfortunately, this time of year seems a little too out of season, with atmosphere lacking and the busy thrill of Summer coming to a close. I suppose, the upside is that we have the place to ourselves.

Calanques of La Ciotat

We may have driven through this resort many times before, but we didn’t know it has the most incredible coastline out of sight from the centre.

About 30 minutes walk from the campsite is a surprise find for us in La Ciotat and we’re about to stumble across it.

Following walking signs to Calanque Figuerolles, a superb stone bay appears with incredible rock formations.

A few lonely people occupy the beach, but the restaurant spanning the edge of the access paths is already closed for Winter.

The picturesque and dramatic cliff setting with red tinge rocks is spectacular, so much so, we’re unsure how we haven’t been here before.

Paths are closed

Unfortunately the wind is stronger than ever, which is disappointing as the walking trails further along are closed.

From the Calanque Figuerolles we walk along a road, following more sign posts for the Calanque du Grand Mugel. This area of the headland is sheltered from the winds. The sea is tempting with small coves where sunbathers take advantage of the calmness.

A seafront bistro serves delicious seafood from its enviable terrace. Further along we come to a park area, with signs for a belvedere which we follow.

Up a hilly path through trees we go, venturing to the viewpoint amongst the Calanque. The views are amazing and a bench provides a welcome rest with our flask of coffee.

The cliffs of tall, rocky, craggy Calanques fall into the sea below, the mighty surroundings bring a feeling of solitude.

La Ciotat has been a delight

Returning back to the campsite from the incredible walk around the Calanques of La Ciotat brings a feeling of accomplishment.

After all the times we’ve driven through the town on adventures along the Côte d’Azur, we’ve never known about this spectacle.

Although they’re not the scale of Calanques at Cassis, they are equally worthy of a visit and ultimately impressive.

For now, we’re ready to drive on along the coast and a new place to spend the night.

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