The Sierra Nevada have a crisp white snow top glaze and form the backdrop to the city of Granada. Our campervan travels have been to glorious Cordoba, but now we’re ready to explore even more of Andalusia. Yes, we’re heading to Granada and the incredible Alhambra Palace and we can’t wait!
Choosing a motorhome stop
After filling up with fuel, we choose an overnight stop at camperstop El Cortijo. It’s located beside a restaurant in the suburb of Huetor Vega and costs €15 a night. We’re not using electric, but it’s available for an extra €5 a night for those who need it.
The friendly lady at reception checks us in, allocating a place number on a clean gravel parking area. Guests can use the restaurant toilets and there’s a good dump/fresh water area, but no showers.
The camperstop owner, Edgar enthusiastically asks us to leave a review on Park4Night and we happily oblige! It’s really convenient for visiting Granada and the Alhambra Palace, so we’re soon off to check out the area.
Bus into Granada
Leaving the campervan in search of a bus stop takes us to the main road. After a left turn along a lane we walk towards a Cepsa fuel station, before drawing a blank! Oh no, trust us to be going wrong. After a quick google search, Nigel finds a bus stop further along up a hill. We’re sure we’ve missed a closer one somehow, but carry on!
Although the street looks too residential, we decide to hang around and wait, then sure enough, along comes a number 18 bus for Granada. Hopping on board we pay a few Euro and the bus drives off through small streets. Eventually we arrive in the centre of Granada, at an end of route bus stop.
Walking the wrong way
Now, we’re really unsure where to go from here, so follow a pink sign for The Alhambra Palace. We’re doing a bit of homework in preparation for visiting tomorrow, but after 20 minutes we realise something isn’t right.
Oh no! Google maps shows a further 45 minutes walk to the Alhambra Palace, so we change direction – rapidly! This time, our walk leads to narrow roads and out of the blue, there’s a bus stop for the C30 bus to Alhambra! Fantastic! Soon a small bus arrives, so we jump on, paying €1.40 each. This little bus is the one for the entrance of the Alhambra Palace, and we’re there in a jiffy.
By now it’s a few minutes to 6pm and we’re wanting to find out about entry for tomorrow. We literally just make it to the ticket office as it’s closing, but all is not well.
Shock ticket news
Then comes a shock. Not only are tickets sold out for tomorrow, but for weeks ahead! However, this is where a bit of foot work pays off. We’re told by staff that the only option to buy tickets at this stage, is for us to go onto their official website at midnight. Apparently this is when they sometimes release extra tickets for that day. Otherwise, there’s no choice but to give visiting Alhambra a miss altogether.
Ok, so that’s not great news, but we’re not giving up yet – this will be a very late night!
The centre of Granada
Leaving the palace behind, we walk back down a hill through narrow streets where tourist shops line the route. This brings us out at Plaza Nueva where a hive of activity is underway for the evening.
Taking an opportunity to walk around the old centre, we soon realise that Granada is really rather nice.
Not only are the buildings charismatic, with moorish architecture, vibrant bars and outdoor dining, but everything here feels very sociable and civilised. There’s also plenty of shops of all descriptions, keeping us amused and bringing a great introduction to this large city.
Now, it’s time for the bus back to the campervan and thankfully we arrive back in good time. One thing we learn is the bus stop is just along the road from the Cepsa fuel station! Yes, we walked too far earlier and totally missed the closest bus stop.
Buying tickets for Alhambra Palace
We clock watch until the clock strikes midnight. Then begin using both phones, trying for online tickets on the official Alhambra palace website.
It’s not completely clear which is the right website, because there are so many operators. Many are selling tickets through similar sounding website names, so we have to be careful to get the right one.
There aren’t any tickets showing, but suddenly the date for tomorrow appears on screen and I manage to bag 2 tickets. Initially, it’s showing a line strikethrough, meaning fully booked, but out of the blue, this turns green, showing tickets are available!
Countdown for purchase – Granada and Alhambra Palace
I scroll down, putting 2 tickets in the bag, scroll again only to be unable to continue – oh no! There’s a timer displaying 30 minutes to complete my purchase and it’s counting down fast.
For some reason, I just can’t get to the next step and I’m unsure what to do next. Do I start over again, or wait for my time to run out? I decide on the latter, but keep attempting to get to the next stage throughout.
Eventually my time runs out, but I immediately have another attempt. Lo and behold, this time I get 2 tickets and move to the next step. This turns out to be choosing an allocated time to visit the Palacios Nazaries, out of a choice of 4. I choose 11.30am and proceed to checkout, only to be asked to enter ticket holders passport details and home address!
A quick dash for our passports and finally at 1am, we have our 2 Alhambra Palace tickets, costing €19 each. Now it’s time for bed!
Visiting the Alhambra Palace complex
This time, we find the closer bus stop to the camper stop. It turns out, it was hidden by a tree, which is why we failed to spot it!
We’re soon in the centre of Granada and in no time at all, find the C30 small bus for Alhambra near Plaza Isabel La Catolica.
At the entrance to Alhambra, we have to show and scan our passports for entry – yes make sure you have them with you! For some reason, they didn’t want to see the tickets which were in the wallet on my phone.
First is The Generalife
Next, we emerge into the grounds, where the first place to visit is the Generalife, originally designed as a summer palace between 1302 and 1309. The palatial gardens await, where an open air theatre and calming water features including ponds and beautifully manicured hedging guide us through towards the main building.
All the while, there are fine views dominating the gardens, overlooking both the city of Granada and the Palacios Nazaries.
Amongst the gardens are tall Cypress trees rising high above the intricate cobble paths and displays of floral blooms.
Within the courtyards are water features, glistening reflections of the architecture and archways, making such a calming place to wonder. Beyond is a stone stairway, which has an unusual water channel flowing down the steps. From here we walk upwards, before emerging back at the start of Generalife.
It’s been wonderful introduction to the sights of Alhambra, but now it’s time to walk the 15 minute path to our 11.30am entrance time at the Palacios Nazaries.
Next is Palacios Nazaries
The Alhambra complex is vast, much bigger than we realised and we feel as if we’re not even close to seeing it all yet.
Joining a queue for admittance at Palacios Nazaries, we don’t reach the front until 11.45am. This is when our passports are scanned again and this time the tickets checked too.
Then our passports are scanned yet again, before admittance into the main section of the Alhambra complex. There are areas in-between ticketed locations which are open to the public without entrance fees, basically public spaces. So, these areas are places we walk between to reach the various locations on the tickets.
Entering the Palacios Nazaries brings the first of many “Wow” factor moments. The immense detail carved into the stonework is flamboyant, yet somehow naturally unassuming. An aura surrounds the mellow tones, hints of colour in the detail, make this a truly wonderful and calming space.
Once again, water is a theme, with the most wonderful rectangular ponds, trickling water features and delicate fountains. Everything here seems to relax the mind and calm the senses, in the most extraordinary way. Perhaps no more so than the spell binding Patio de los Arrayanes – it’s the kind of place that’s hard to leave.
Alhambra just keeps giving
Needless to say, both Granada and the Alhambra Palace just keeps on giving, bringing such immense beauty throughout. From the glazed tiles adorning the walls to carvings on the wooden ceilings, the marble and stone fountains of idyllic water features to soothing pools, intimate courtyards and pristine gardens.
The detail is endlessly beautiful and the arches and portico’s add to the already gorgeous designs.
The Bano Real de comares and Grand finale
There’s also a glimpse of the former bathhouse to be seen at the Bano Real de Comares, where brick corridors lead through old bathing areas.
At the end of the tour, we find ourselves in the most beautiful gardens, where terraces rise from a large pool. Reflections of the portico building at Palacio del Partal adds an extra aura of calm and serenity.
Wandering round the terraces where water flows and pools intermingle with neatly trimmed topiary, this is almost like the Grand Finale of Alhambra – simply mesmerising.
Alhambra has to be the palace of palace’s, it’s one quite unlike any other and being here really does bring a sense of gratitude.
After exiting into a public courtyard, we take advantage of a refreshments kiosk and stone seating area. Stopping for a break over a coffee and sandwiches, as well as a toilet stop before continuing to explore.
Alcazaba Citadel
Finally, we walk the Alcazaba citadel, a fort dating back to 1237 and incorporating towers giving panoramic views over Granada old town and the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains.
As we look down from the towers, we see the remains of the old bath houses below. The Alcazaba itself is huge, with a vast terrace overlooking the city, all simply magnificent.
Granada and Alhambra has been amazing
Before leaving Alhambra, we take a look inside an old bath house which still has original tiles on the walls and drainage channels.
There’s the Museum de la Alhambra, within the grounds of the Palacio Carlos V, which we don’t venture into. However, we do admire the round ground floor of the courtyard, built with 32 columns, it’s another amazing sight to see.
Walking back into Granada’s old town, where coffee awaits, we glance back up at the Alhambra from an open terrace. Wow – what a place, what a day.
Before leaving for the bus back to the campervan, we take to the old streets of the centre where a narrow labyrinth awaits in the old muslim quarter, and leafy squares provide tranquil rest.
A vast cathedral adorns the centre, costing €6 admission, but we feel it’s been too long a day to do any more sightseeing.
Instead, we return on the bus back to the camper stop and reflect on what’s been the most incredible couple of days here in Granada and its intoxicatingly beautiful Alhambra Palace.
