Cycling the old railway line to Apt

Entering a CampingCar-Park near the small Luberon village of Goult, brings us to a little gem of a find. The Aire is really spacious and is on the site of a former railway station. No sooner are we finding a parking place and we notice cyclists passing by. Yes, the old railway tracks beside the station are now part of a new cycle path which will soon have us cycling the old railway line to Apt.

The village of Goult maybe hidden from our view, but there’s no mistaking its typically French styling. Situated in the Provence countryside, golden stone buildings comprise of a few restaurants and small shops. All around us are fine views of the surrounding landscapes.

There isn’t much else here other than the quaint village, vines and fields of lavender. So all we have to do this evening is sit back and relax.

The next morning, a quick look at the cycling route signs confirm it’s a perfect path for our Brompton’s. Not only does the cycle path (La Veloroute de Cavalon) have a tarmac base, but it’s very nearly traffic-free too. The exception is a few very short sections which run along a minor road.

The cycle path is very new and runs from Les Beaumettes to Apt, we’re joining it outside the Aire at Lumieres.

This easy route along the old railway is really beautiful. We’re soon on our bikes, passing through vineyards and lavender, both of which are renowned in the region. The cycle path follows a river, which is dry on our visit in the midst of the provencal countryside.

In the distance we see hilltop villages glistening in the afternoon sun, while the mighty Mt.Ventoux rises over the Luberon. It’s a beautiful landscape and we’re really enjoying the experience being amongst it.

We cross the dry river bed over Pont Julien, a really pretty stone Roman bridge. Then continue to follow the Velo route signs towards Apt.

Apt is a rather unassuming town, with its main thoroughfare situated around the river. Its origins as a Roman town are unique in that it lies beside the Via Domitia, the first Roman Road in France linking Italy and Spain.

Today, it’s a town known for its huge market, which is actually the largest in the Luberon with 300 stalls in Summer. There’s also another sweeter connection due to it being the home of candied fruits!

For us it’s time to lock up the bikes and set out on foot to explore it’s centre.

Overall Apt is more of a functional looking place, which looks a bit tired in places. However, we do find some interesting narrow streets in the old part which lead us to a few bars and a nice little cafe.

Outside tables provide for a relaxing spot of lunch, or rather a croissant, sable biscuits and cafe au lait. Blaming it on the cycling for the sweet tooth moment.

So far the cycle path has taken us about an hour from leaving the campervan to locking up the bikes.

Although it’s a lovely cycle path and ideal for our folding Brompton bikes, Apt probably isn’t the most characteristic town we’ve seen.

However, we haven’t been here before and cycling has been a great way to see it without having to move the camper.

Now all we have to do is return the same way, except this time we have a strong head wind – typical! Despite the extra effort on the legs, we make it safely back to the Aire just a little saddle sore and ready for a well earned cup of tea.

The two-hour round trip (cycling time) has been a great way to explore the countryside, it’s been really lovely in places.

Tomorrow we’ll be driving on towards the coast, where the Mediterranean awaits. For now it’s time to put the bikes away and the feet up!

thanks for reading ‘Cycling the old railway line to Apt’ don’t forget to like, follow and subscribe!