Visiting Split in Croatia
Today we’re visiting Split in Croatia, on our May tour along the Dalmatian coast. We’re staying about 40 minutes away at Camping Rozac in Trogir, a popular campsite in a lovely setting.
Initially, we want to catch the boat from Trogir to Split, a shuttle service operating from the quay. Unfortunately, the timetable isn’t great with a ferry at 8.30am and the next not being until 3pm. It’s such a shame, because this would save us the drive in the campervan and also it’s a really nice way to travel. In peak season, the ferry leaves more often, but we’ll be driving to Split instead.
Croatia, like many countries in Europe has a generally short tourist season. Our visit is during May which is still off-peak, so the drive along the entire coast has seen many campsites relatively empty or closed and tourist facilities quiet. It’s only in the last few days when there’s been a visible rise in tourists, warmer weather and a busy campsite.
Finding a parking place -Visiting Split in Croatia
Split is a huge town, it’s the 2nd largest in Croatia and there is no mistaking this on our approach.
There’s a sprawling, unattractive mass of buildings spanning the skyline in the outer areas, hiding the real beauty lying beside the water.
Parking isn’t straight forward, but we head through side roads towards a day spot on P4N. The what3words is: ///sluggish.rephrasing.permissive.
It’s a bit of a tight approach on a narrow road which bends towards a small port and swimming pool complex. Here there’s a parking area which is busy, free to use and beside the water. The swimming pool is closed, pools empty too and adjacent beach restaurant the same. I’m not sure if it’s never open or if it’s just because the season isn’t in full swing.
Luckily we manage to squeeze into a space, have a quick bite to eat and dip our toes in the crystal clear water.
Walking into Split
Lunching by the crystal clear waters under a warming sun is quite relaxing. Now, it’s time to walk the 15 minute stroll along a sea front into the centre of Split. This is a pleasant route, walking beside beaches which are really busy with tourists.
The locals also seem to be out in force, this being the start of the hot days of the season. It’s the first beach weather day we’ve had on the trip after much rain and chilly breezes.
The locals play a well known local ball game name known as Picigin on the sandy beach of Bacvice. In the background there are 2 huge cruise liners in dock, and beyond these in a bustling port are numerous ferries. These take foot and vehicle passengers across to various islands around the coast.
Roman structures and pavement cafe’s
Split is soon before us after walking beside the large port of cruise ships and ferries. It’s as if we’re now in another world in comparison to other towns on this trip. Visiting Split is a bit like being thrown into the busiest tourist town imaginable and is quite obviously on the tourist trail in Croatia.
However, this isn’t a bad thing, because the atmosphere is vibrant, bringing a great feel to the polished stone streets.
Pavement cafe’s line the waterfront which is wide, long and attractive. Palm trees break up the pale tones of the architecture, seemingly floating along the promenade in effortless style.
Split is a walled town, where Roman structures dominate its interior. The main feature being the incredible Diocletians Palace, a labyrinth of tiny stone streets, fascinating facades and sun-drenched squares.
Incredibly there are 220 buildings here, housing 3000 people, in the tightly packed narrow streets. The UNESCO listed palace isn’t just a Roman masterpiece, but a town within a town.
Beautifully serene
We soon realise, despite the crowds, Split is beautifully serene with an immaculate old centre which captivates the spirit.
Wondering through ancient gateways, into underground chambers and along its narrow streets is quite magical. No wonder many of the scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed here. Unfortunately, most have an entrance fee, so we don’t venture beyond the exterior!
We spend the day leisurely exploring Split, before returning on foot back the way we came along the beaches and promenades until we arrive at the campervan.
The crowds are dispersing as it’s now early evening but there’s still a few stragglers on the sands.
The campervan has been fine at this ideal day parking spot beside the sea. Now we take the 40 minute drive back to Trogir for a chilled night back at the campsite. Split has been delightful, it would make a great place to fly to for a weekend break too as there’s an airport just on the outskirts.
We can’t wait to see how it compares to Dubrovnik, as our route will soon take us further along the coast to Croatia’s main tourist destination. Unfortunately, the unexpected happens before we reach there, cutting our travels short in an instant.