Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
High above the village of Misurina in the heart of The Italian Dolomites lies Tre Cime di Lavaredo walk. Not only is this one of the most popular day hikes in the region, but it’s also one of the most beautiful.
Our journey through the Dolomites began several weeks earlier, embarking on a Summer tour of Northern Italy. Arriving in the bustling town of Cortina D’Ampezzo, our overnight parking spot in the centre proved an ideal place to find our feet.
Cortina D’Ampezzo – Gateway to Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The tourist office in the town of Cortina D’Ampezzo is our starting point for information. Finding out which walks are right for us and where to find them.
For just a couple of Euro’s, a helpful chap at the information desk, gave us a map of walking routes, marking various paths in thick black marker pen.
In this part of Italy, the Via Ferrata are in abundance. That’s great for those who want to be hooked up to a harness and dangle from a Mountain, but we want a less hair-raising choice of walks.
Looking at the map we find some routes marked with a cross. Thank goodness we realise these are Via Ferrata, meaning keep a very wide berth.
One particular hike looks like it’s right for us. This being the all time favourite walk in the Dolomites – The Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
A Private Mountain Pass to Tre Cime Di Lavaredo
The walk at Tre Cime di Lavaredo takes about 4 hours to complete. We want to start early in the morning, mainly because our walks involve plenty of coffee en-route! Then a loo break follows, along with lots of stopping to admire those views.
With this in mind, we take the private mountain pass, leading up the mountain amid plenty of hairpin bends. The “Strada a pagamento” toll road cost us 45 Euro, but includes 24-hour parking for the campervan at the top.
Well what a climb it is too. Winding up 2320m of mountain until we reached the Rifugio Auronzo. This is a typical Dolomites style mountain chalet alongside the start of Tre Cime di Lavaredo walking route.
The fog rolls in
No sooner do we decide on a parking spot and the fog rolls in from nowhere. As usual, it takes us a while trying to get the best view. But soon this disappears into a pea soup fog surrounding us.
Worse still, the roar of next doors generator powers up with gusto, making Nigel’s tinnitus pale into insignificance.
I hop out the van to try and get my bearings, but quickly jump back in and put the heater on to warm up. The air temperature up here is super chilly, certainly time to dig out the base layers for the big hike tomorrow.
We’re not alone – Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Certainly, it seems everyone else has the same idea. By early evening, the parking area is getting pretty busy. It’s mostly campervans and motorhomes, but even a caravan arrives.
Trying to be at least a bit organised, we pack the rucksacks and make a picnic lunch ready for the morning.
All we have to do now, is wait for the weather to clear and hope the forecast of a clear day materialises.
Hiking the Dolomites – Tre Cime di Lavaredo
I’m afraid to admit, whenever we promise ourselves to leave early, we never actually do! So, eventually by 10am, we find ourselves a few minutes from the van at the start of the path.
One thing we hadn’t expected was crowds, and my goodness, they were out in the masses. Some of you may be glad to know there’s toilets at the start, always a good sign, if like me, you need to go again as soon as you leave the car park.
Soon we’re at a bright yellow sign for Tre Cime di Lavaredo, surrounded by the most fabulous views ever. Best of all, the fog from the previous day has cleared, and the sun looks like it might just make an appearance.
The Three iconic Dolomite Peaks
Despite the better weather, although this is Summer, the temperatures are still super chilly. Wrapped up in walking gear consisting of a coat, hat, snood and thick woolly socks inside warm boots, makes us feel ready for action.
The walk itself takes you on a circuit beneath the rocky peaks of Occid, Grande and Piccola. Towering above the mountain, these dramatic rock faces rise to almost 3000m. Not only are they great to see, but it’s also a hub for rock climbers, making it even more visually intriguing.
Meandering across the mountain
I’m not one to follow the crowds, but here we have no choice as the gravel path leads everyone along the mountain. Thankfully, we soon gain a little more space, as the route opens up below the first of the three iconic Dolomite peaks.
Surrounding us are masses of rock, loose stones underfoot and the most incredible views.
Unfortunately, once the path narrows again, the people on it make it all a bit uncomfortable! Especially having to wait for people to move out of the way or simply for us to let people pass.
A perfect picnic spot
By the time we reach the Rifugio Locatelli at 2405m, we’re ready to open the butty bag and reach for the flask of hot coffee. Parking our backsides on a wooden bench below the chalet gives us a chance for a chat with our picnic neighbours.
I love to speak to people, generally you learn so much, but more precise I’m a bit nosy!
This lovely American family next to us, are about to embark on an overnight Via Ferrata adventure, through some war time tunnels.
Incredibly, this whole Dolomites region was home to Italian forces during the war years. Not only that, but they built tunnels and shelters up here in the harshest conditions.
After watching the Americans being fitted out with harness and helmets by their Italian guide, it was time for a quick loo stop at the chalet before trundling on. Waving our goodbyes as they disappear up the mountain, our own walk now seems a bit less adventurous.
Green meadows and cattle bells
Feeling refreshed we’re ready to carry on along the well marked path. Soon, we drop down into a lush green meadow where the most gorgeous cows graze.
I love the sound of the cattle bells as they ring out across the mountains, the tone just feels so calming. Getting up close as they munch on the fresh grass is even better. Before long, our paths are crossing, yet they carry on regardless.
Obviously, these mountain cattle are well used to the crowds sharing their pastures over Summer.
A hill with a queue
As with most mountains, if you go down, at some point you also have to go up again. Unfortunately for us, the crowds ahead are ever so slightly slower, even more annoying is having no place to pass as they converge on the narrow paths.
I don’t know about you, but I always find it harder to walk if I have to go slow. I’m more of the mindset of picking up a pace and just getting the hills over and done with.
As we both gritted our teeth, eventually, a few passing places open up and we take our chance.
A glorious Dolomites panorama
Before we know it, the views open up again. In the distance ahead of us appears a fabulous panorama, the glorious Dolomite ranges glistening in the sun which is now shining above.
Behind us rise the three peaks of the Tre Cime Di Lavaredo. If nothing else this place is simply breathtaking, despite the crowds on the mountain, it’s worth it.
The scenery in all directions is amazing, so many dramatic peaks, yet from here, we seem to be gliding above them all.
Before long we finish, coming full circle and stepping out into the parking area with the campervan in front of us.
The circuit completed
What a day it has been. We may not have been the only ones on the mountain, but then again, is there anywhere left undiscovered in this world?
I guess in high season, it’s only to be expected. Yet this wasn’t school holidays, we were still in June, so July and August would no doubt be busier still.
By 3pm with the circuit completed, there was only one thing left to do. A quick cuppa at the campervan, before heading off down the pass before our 24 hour pass runs out.
The Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo walk, was for us, a great day of exercise without being too difficult. Although there were a few steep sections, overall it was an ideal day walk, now all we had to do was plan the next one!
Thank you Kelvin, very kind. It’s good to look back it reminds us of how good somewhere is! We’re stuck in Wales desperate to escape our 5 mile travel rule!! We’ll hopefully see you on the road in Europe!