Tisno to Sibenik in Dalmatia

It’s mid May 2023 and we’re on our campervan travels in Croatia. Leaving the beautiful city of Zadar behind we’re about to reach the section of coast at Tisno to Sibenik in Dalmatia. This area is popular in Summer, but this time of year the beaches are desolate, campsites empty and resorts unrecognisable.

The coast road from Zadar isn’t bringing many “Wow factor” moments so far. Once again, as we’re finding across Croatia, the towns and villages appear hard on their luck. We’re unsure if it’s an impact from lockdowns, keeping tourists away so long, or is it always like this?

Our last visit to Croatia was 10 years ago, covering Istria and Kvarner. A decade earlier, things were somewhat more “with it” than we’re now finding. Maybe we were expecting too much, simply as Croatia became a member of the EU in January 2023.

I guess, this is the good thing about what we do, driving to a country makes you see it differently. This is something we’ve always been keen to keep real.

Camping Jezera at Tisno

It’s threatening rain again and it’s chilly, this trip has seen lots of rain! By the time we reach the harbour town of Tisno, we’re ready to stop for the night. Croatia doesn’t have Aires and wild camping is not something you’re supposed to do. Having said that, we have stayed a few nights here and there where “off season” travel is allowing some flexibility.

Today though, we’re going to check in to Camping Holiday Resort Jezera with ACSI. At the moment it’s €21 per night, which is about the normal rate for this time of year if using ACSI. If anything it’s a little cheaper than some sites.

We drive to the terrace pitches which have plenty of pine trees for shade, but this isn’t needed. There’s a toilet block a few pitches from us, which is clean, if not a little dated. Unfortunately, like many sites abroad off season, the amenity blocks are designed for intense Summer heat! So, there’s a draft coolness from the air circulating and luke warm showers mean a quick rinse.

We’re hoping to do the laundry, but we fail to find the site laundry room, even after asking. Eventually, we realise it’s not open until the morning! What a nuisance, it’s one reason we’ve come to a site – to have a good wash & dry session as Croatia isn’t the best for laundrettes.

Camping jezera is huge

Camping Jezera is huge, which again is quite normal for Croatia. There’s restaurants and a whole load of other amenities but none are open this time of year. Numerous pitches and pathways lead to a sweeping bay of beaches. There’s no beach towels or sun loungers out today, instead it’s grey, empty and blowing a gale!

No doubt in Summer, Camping Jezera is a different place altogether, with pitches full of eager campers, children playing and various activities going on across the site.

One good point to mention is the path to town direct from the site. So, this is where we head next, to explore Tisno itself despite the wind and rain.

Tisno – Tisno to Sibenik in Dalmatia

A walk into Tisno from Camping Jezera meets us with strong winds, with waves crashing along the waterfront.

It’s an old town, probably full of character in the sun of Summer, but we’re here on a really blustery day. The sea spray is soaking us and swell is high. Tisno is actually partially located on the small island of Murtur, with a bridge connection, so it’s quite unusual.

There’s stone buildings set back from the water and a selection of cafe’s and eateries which look closed. There’s not much to see, so after a walk around checking we haven’t missed anything, we decide to turn back.

Just as we do so, some locals drive by shouting something at us from their car window and waving their arms as if we’re doing something we shouldn’t be. We have no idea, so carry on walking along the promenade minding our own business.

Sibenik – A truly sensational find

Prior to leaving Camping Jezera, we try and empty and re-fill at the site dump, but find it busy with very large motorhomes filling very large tanks!

After a long wait and no sign of movement, we decide to drive on and leave the water filling for our next overnight stop.

As we’re driving along the coast, we come across the town of Sibenik which happens to have a large free parking area. Here we park up for lunch, don’t get me wrong, it’s not scenic and I don’t think we’d want to park overnight here, but it’s perfect for an afternoon in Sibenik.

We’re not alone, as there’s several motorhomes here too, but most seem to come and go during our lunch stop.

Sibenik Old Centre

It’s only about a 10 minute walk to Sibenik old town itself, taking us on a waterside path. Unfortunately, it’s so windy and the sea is lapping over into the seaside restaurants along the pavements.

We’re not sure what to expect, but soon realise it’s a good find. Sibenik is a lovely old town, where stone is the name of the game.

The cathedral of St.James, built entirely from Croatian limestone and marble from the island of Brac, is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s stunning. For me, it’s the incredibly beautiful stone steps leading up into the thriving, old town centre which have a magical appeal.

From here, there’s a beautiful town square, small alleyways of shops and character which shine from the Venetian roots of this place. Even on a grey day like today, Sibenik shines, with its pristine stone glistening.

It’s no wonder Sibenik was part of the set for “Game of Thrones”, apparently being Braavos in Season 5.

Sibenik feels like tourist season awaits

There’s no doubt, just like Zadar, that Sibenik is already awakening to tourist season. There’s British accents for the first time in a long time, people milling about in true tourist style and atmosphere along the way.

We walk uphill through the old maize of streets and steps towards 17th Century St.Johns Fortress above the town centre. Although we don’t go in, it’s good to take the walk and see the town from a different perspective.

Sibenik is after all a quaint, charismatic place and one where you’ll feel a connection due to its intimacy. It’s small, easy to navigate and has plenty of places to sit and relax if the weather is good. For us, the wind and rain is an unfortunate inconvenience, but we’re still smitten with Sibenik.

One final point, the outskirts of high rise apartment buildings don’t reflect the beauty of Sibenik old town at all. So if you come across those first, don’t be put off!

Thanks for reading “Tisno to Sibenik in Dalmatia” don’t forget to like and subscribe.