Pretty village of Albarracin
After driving south from Bilbao for some winter sun, it’s freezing but sunny day on the inland route. Although we’re en-route to the pretty village of Albarracin, we notice signs for a Roman aqueduct, so pull over.
This is the smaller village of Gea de Albarracin, and we’re able to park easily.
Setting off on foot, we’re soon following walking signs, leading across dirt tracks on open terrain. We’re expecting an overground structure, similar to a mini Pont du Gard. So imagine our surprise when we reach an historic site of a different kind.
After walking the gravel track, we arrive at a picnic area complete with tidy paths and more trail signs. The biggest surprise is this aqueduct is actually underground and dates from the 1st century.
Network of tunnels
We follow signs and walking tracks into this network of tunnels, which are free to enter. They’re really just a part of the landscape, without any visitor office or similar.
The dimly lit labyrinth of Roman engineering is fascinating. This aqueduct network runs for 16 miles and was dug by hand, truly amazing. In places there’s no light at all. We’re in complete darkness, scrambling for the torch on our phones to see beyond the black tunnel.
We have such great fun exploring these tunnels. Some are so low we have to crouch down and hope for the best. Eventually, we find our way out, making our way to the picnic benches for a flask of coffee and snack.
Returning back to the van the same way, we take a walk into the quaint and traditional village itself of Gea Albarracin. This tidy, authentic village is charming.
Another aqueduct in a cliff
Driving on towards Albarracin, it’s not long before the rock face begins to dominate the scenery in a gorge-like fashion. Along the way are numerous signs indicating viewing areas to an aqueduct. So, we stop at a parking area and follow a steep gravel path towards the cliff face.
Here, the path enters more tunnels, similar to the ones we’ve been through earlier. This incredible site of the tunnels of the former aqueduct are just fab. As we walk through, we peep out of window-type cut outs in the rock which provides great views across the valley. You can only walk so far here, as the rest of the tunnels are inaccessible.
Pretty village of Albarracin
Next, we’re back in the van and driving to the pretty village of Albarracin. Its pink and mellow yellow tones glisten in the afternoon sun while this whole village spreads out before us, clinging to the rock.
Beneath the tall old buildings of the cliff, a road tunnel leads through the rock, emerging into a gorge by a river.
It’s such a lovely drive, so we do it in reverse, this time getting a great view of the opposite side of the village. That’s because Albarracin sort of clings to both sides of a rock face, or at least gives the appearance of such.
This fortified village is quite extraordinary, with fortress-like walls climbing up the hillside, while church towers rise above a network of tiny streets.
There’s a motorhome parking area which we take a look at, but it’s rather far out and we’ve done a lot of walking already today. We’re also unsure if we want to stop the night, maybe just a day visit will be enough.
So, we park in a space on the main road, after trying to park in the parking area for the town and failing. After numerous attempts at putting our coins in the parking meter and it spitting them out, we decide the road will do.
Intriguing old centre
The good thing about touring off season, is there’s no one else here! The downside, it’s freezing cold.
We’re wrapping up for our walk around the old centre, which turns out to be as delightful as we were hoping. View points provide lovely outlooks across the valley and tiny tiered streets lead us into a maize of narrow alleys.
Somehow we manage to make our way without getting lost but unfortunately, there’s nothing open here and no sign of life. The stillness and solitude of winter has struck its magic on Albarracin.
Plenty of walking trails offer an insight into routes starting from the village into the arid landscapes. It’s a fabulous looking area, which must be both busy and truly scenic in summer.
Just as we’re leaving the old village to make our way back to the camper, a couple of motorhomes pass by. Otherwise, we haven’t seen a soul.
Moving on, we head to a free and very full motorhome area at the city of Teruel. It’s colder still with temperatures down to -2C, so with ice forming, we tuck ourselves in and keep warm.
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