Primosten to Trogir Dalmatia
It’s Mid May 2023 and we’re driving through Croatia on the Primosten to Trogir section of coast. This is the Dalmatia region and we’re slowly exploring the so far very quiet area. It’s off-season and even the weather has been dull and chilly for most of the trip.
After leaving Sibenik, we’re hoping for an improvement in both the weather and surroundings. Although Sibenik old town is beautiful, we’re finding much of Dalmatia has half built buildings, many derelict from long ago and infrastructure poor. Although, there’s no denying the landscapes and Adriatic backdrop make up for much of the not so good parts.
Primosten Overnight Parking
Primosten approaches and luckily, there’s a really good parking area in the centre where you can stay in the motorhome overnight. A chap sits at the entrance kiosk, asking us if we’re here overnight, we look at each other and reply ‘yes’. With that we pay the €8 overnight fee and park up next to several other motorhomes.
It’s nothing special here, just a gravel mixed parking area with lots of muddy puddles in today’s heavy rain. Convenience is key though, as it’s within minutes walk of Primosten centre and we can’t wait to take a look.
First, we try and wait for a break in the rain. It’s heavy, with roads flooding and no sign of life on the empty streets.
We decide to sit indoors, after all, there’s only so much getting a soaking appeals to us after the amount of rain this trip.
Derelict Hotels and the war
The morning comes but the rain is still with us. Now, there’s no more waiting, we’ve just got to go for it.
The roads are still overflowing with water, soon our feet are wet through. The short walk brings us out onto a prom type area. There’s lots of restaurants with eating areas on the beachside terraces. A sweeping bay and what looks like a derelict hotel beyond the beach is a reminder of how different Croatia has been.
We’ve seen so many derelict buildings, many overgrown nature camouflaging the remnants and often large hotel complexes which have never re-opened after the war of the 90’s.
I remember staying in an island hotel in the former Yugoslavia back in 1985, before the war and when tourism was at its height. Seeing once sprawling, busy tourist accommodation in ruins is quite eerie. It really rings home how awful events became here, in what is now Croatia.
Old island town -Primosten to Trogir Dalmatia
Primosten is actually an old island town, but was joined to the mainland in the 1500’s. You can still see this island format and walking along its circular coast path is quite delightful.
The sea is crystal clear, whilst the path takes an uphill turn as we follow the curve of the island. There’s some classy little bars along the way, some with nothing but the Adriatic for company. As we walk the perimeter, we near a church, perched on the top of a hill and presiding over pretty Primosten.
This is beautiful place, is the Church of St.George and the stone walls are draped in flowers.
From here, steps lead through narrow streets, where individual craft shops await. Then we reach the harbour, where Primosten comes to life in all its glory. There’s a wide, open promenade, restaurants and boating life.
Even in May, in the off season, Primosten has a certain warmth and character which must be infectious in Summer.
The harbour is clear, with plenty of sea life to watch over. It all feels rather classy here and we imagine it attracts a discerning traveller. The quaint holiday accommodation behind the stone walls of its buildings must be full in Summer.
Rain doesn’t dampen Primosten
The rain doesn’t stop for long, but it doesn’t dampen Primosten. We leave feeling like we’re on to something now. This part of Dalmatia seems to be upping the game and we’re beginning to like it.
We leave the motorhome parking area (there’s no facilities by the way) and drive to the far end of Primosten. Here there’s another abandoned Hotel complex, which is really amongst the overgrowth of time.
It looks like something from Jurassic Park, with former rooms and balconies empty of anything other than water, graffiti and overgrown trees. It’s spooky, but we take a look at it from afar, not wanting to go anywhere near the inside and taking note of the warning signs. Ultimately, saying to “keep out”!
In reality, this is an empty, decaying shell. It looks as if there’s plans for re-developing this former hotel complex, let’s hope it’s a success.
Trogir awaits
We’re driving the coast road again now, heading to Trogir in hope of finding a campsite pitch and a mobile home.
We’ve not got anything booked, but our Son and his Fiancé are coming out to join us for a week, so we need to act quickly!
Trogir is really close to Split airport, only about 5-10 minutes drive, so it’s super handy for meeting family whilst away. We take lunch at a Lidl car park watching the airplanes from the van. It’s a great plane-spotting place.
Now after stocking up, we drive through Trogir to Camping Rozac along a narrow, hilly road. Passing Trogir over a bridge from its centre gives a good look at this gorgeous UNESCO World Heritage Site. So far, Trogir looks like it’s going to be quite a find and we can’t wait to take a closer look.
Luckily, we manage to get the last mobile home at Camping Rozac for a week and they allow us to park the campervan at its parking space beside it. The campsite here is pretty much full, is this a sign of things to come from now on? Maybe tourist season is almost upon us in Croatia after all.
That’s our journey from Primosten to Trogir in Dalmatia coming to a close, but there’s plenty more to come.
Join us next time to find out all about Trogir, this superb historic old city, a 40 minute drive from its big neighbour of Split.
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