Karlobag to Zaton Dalmatia
Leaving the abandoned airfield of Zeljava behind, our route now leads along mountain passes to the coast. We’re heading towards Karlobag then we’ll meander on to Zaton in this scenic region of Dalmatia.
It’s mid May and the tourist’s are yet to arrive here in Croatia. Not only do we have the place to ourselves, but the weather isn’t playing ball this time of year. It’s chilly, wet and not quite the late Spring temperatures we were hoping for.
As we pass through Gospic, we notice this unassuming inland town was where a Nazi concentration camp once stood. As a consequence, over 42,000 people lost their lives, something hard to imagine on this peaceful evening.
Karlobag harbour
After navigating the steep mountain pass which leads us from the countryside to the coast, we find ourselves at Karlobag.
This harbour town is a good place to stop the night. It’s now dark and the rain pouring down upon this small coastal resort.
We find a couple of motorhomes in the car park overlooking the sea and decide to join them. Wild camping isn’t strictly a thing in Croatia, but it’s off season and the local police who drive by seem unconcerned. It’s no real surprise, because we’re about the only sign of life this evening.
So, this is our place for the night, but before bed we need to eat and our cupboards are bare.
Pizza and more rain
It’s time to put on the coats and head outside in search of food. We can see a few bars on the harbour, otherwise there’s not much here. Luckily, there’s pizza on offer at a harbour view bar, so we place our order and take shelter on their terrace.
The pizza is good and a few locals arrive which makes the atmosphere slightly more lively. It’s hard to think of this place in the height of Summer, when warmth, tourists and light nights bring such a different appeal.
After a good nights sleep, we awake to more rain. The views from our back windows are prime sea-front but a thick mist hangs over the water.
If only we can see the sun again!
A half-built land – Karlobag to Zaton Dalmatia
Driving on along the coast road is quite pleasant, even in the rain. Although we now realise that Croatia is a country half finished.
There’s so many derelict or half built buildings everywhere, whilst those on the seashore are old and often run down. To put it bluntly, there seems little in the way of major investment here.
The land is sparse, mountainous and there’s few towns inbetween. In fact, there’s not much here at all except the coast – which of course is rather beautiful.
Although we’ve been to Croatia in our previous motorhome 10 years earlier, we weren’t in this region. Then it was mostly Istria, a region of history, incredible beaches and influences from across the water in Venice.
Nin – a walled town
At Nin, above the city of Zadar is our next stop and one we just happen across. It’s a walled town with funding from the EU bringing big changes to infrastructure. We park in a large parking area which is undergoing renovation, but it’s empty of people and vehicles.
The rain is still falling, so the coats are on again.
Nin is apparently the oldest Royal town in Croatia and is actually a small island surrounded by salt flats.
Its pretty stone bridge connects to the centre, where the church bells serenade us. There’s Roman history here, when it was an important sea port, but the town dates back 3000 years.
It’s a beautiful place, the narrow main street has some shops and there are some tourists too, no doubt coming from nearby Zadar.
We stroll the little island and take a seaside path taking us full circle on the periphery. Even in the low cloud, we quite like this town.
Although it’s a brief stop, we take a drive afterwards to its surroundings, mainly hoping to find somewhere to park for the night. We fail, but what we find is a selection of holiday villages in various states of repair, pine forests and beaches. Again in Summer, things may look more inviting.
Karlobag to Zaton Dalmatia – a harbour parking
We’re using P4N to try and find a parking place but there’s not too many on offer. So, we follow one to Zaton, and a harbour car park which will do us for the night. Zaton is just above Zadar and not to be confused with another further down the coast.
It’s now going dark, so we take the opportunity for a walk to get our bearings and make sure it feels ok here. There’s a path leading to a beach and coastal walk towards a town.
Once again, this must be beautiful in Summer and although it is May, our weather is miserable! There’s small boats and a few dog walkers around but otherwise it’s quiet here.
Or, so we think. It turns out to be one those awful nights of restless sleep. Kept awake by howling dogs echoing from a nearby property, although we can’t pin point where.
By the time morning comes, our bleary eyes are ready to just move on. There’s something about having no sleep that makes a place less appealing.
Zaton to Zadar
Now, we’re moving on, heading towards Zadar along more of the same coastal views. It’s a strange mix of what seems to be quite poverty-stricken villages and buildings to incredible beaches.
The terrain is mountainous, somewhat baron and typically Mediterranean, whilst the villages infrequent. All the while, the sea is flat calm and water so clear. The Adriatic is a blissful place to be when temperatures allow for pleasurable swims and lazy beach days.
Along the way we’re imagining the Summer vibe, yet wondering if these more isolated coastal locations have much in the way of tourists.
One place that is bustling, even in May is Zadar, as we’re about to find out.