Volosko fishing village Croatia
Heading inland across the mist-filled hills from the coast of Slovenia brings anticipation yet excitement. We’re about to reach Volosko, a fishing village in Croatia, but first there’s the border to contend with.
Strangely enough, we needn’t have given it a second thought, because the colossal queues that we had to endure on our last visit are nowhere to be seen. Thank goodness for that. Today, the lengthy border wait is a thing of the past.
It’s because Croatia joined the EU in January 2023, meaning no more official border checks for EU passport holders. Luckily, although we’re UK passport holders, the same sign tells us to drive on through.
In other words, there’s no hour-long wait at the border crossing, like we had on our last trip 10 years ago. In fact, the border looks really quiet, without much sign of life at all.
Opatja comes into sight
We’ve already read that Volosko is quite beautiful, so decide to head that way. It’s location 2km East of Opatja looks easy enough to reach in the campervan.
One of the first things we notice about Croatia is billboard after billboard advertisements for dentistry. So, if you need anything doing to your teeth, this may be the place for you.
Thankfully, we didn’t need to seek treatment from a dentist, but the sparkling white teeth beaming back at us from the roadside makes us wonder if people come here especially to have work done.
The other thing we notice as we glide down the hillside is Opatja, but of course you can’t miss it! This vast, sprawling town in Croatia’s Kvarner region was once a chic coastal resort for wealthy Austro-Hungarian’s.
It’s the kind of place we want to miss, simply because of its size and awkward looking position. Today, we sort of can’t be bothered, but perhaps it’s an error to not venture further to explore a little.
Volosko awaits – if we can park
Next, the road winds down from Opatja towards the less populated outskirts. By now, we’re driving almost beside the sea, and despite the rain which is following us on this trip, the views are quite spectacular.
The road signs direct us towards the narrow streets above Volosko. Oh dear, we didn’t really think about the parking situation, but we soon realise it’s not ideal.
Not only is it tight, hilly and quite inaccessible for anything larger than a standard saloon but it’s also busy.
It’s only the second week of May, so it’s not peak season and the weather is terrible. In other words, it’s not good weather for people to be out and about.
Eventually we find a car park that we may fit into, but first we have to turn around to find the entrance. It’s one on a bend and a hill with a sharp turn into the parking area itself. We finally make it and park beside another campervan of similar size to ours.
After paying for an hour at the parking machine, we head off into Volosko.
The most quaint harbour
Plenty of steps lead to tiny alleyways which bring us out onto a wet harbour-side front. The rain is relentless, but the quaint harbour of Volosko is delightful.
Talk about pretty – this is one cute fishing village which is home to laid back restaurants overlooking the water.
There’s a few fishing boats moored up beside the harbour front, where locals sit under the canopy of the restaurants. Further along is a short promenade which we venture onto to take a look back at the harbour.
It’s quite likely a perfect introduction to Croatia’s coast, yet completely not on the main tourist trail. We wonder if that’s about to change though, because there’s something very magical about this idyllic harbour village of Volosko, even in the rain!
Our hour is up – Volosko fishing village Croatia
We stroll a narrow, stone path leading beside the sea beyond the harbour. Taking time to look into the water for signs of sea life, we’ve just enough time before heading back to the campervan.
Yes, our hour’s parking is up and we’re wet, chilly and ready to head back.
Looking around this beautiful little gem of a place has been delightful.
Now we need to think about finding somewhere to park up for the night. We’ll be loosing the light soon, so drive off along the coast towards Bakarac.
A Village Park Up at Bakarac
After checking the Apps we come across a parking space beside a Taverna in the village of Bakarac.
By the time we get there, it’s dark and pouring down still. An overland truck is parking up between some trees, so we take the space next to it and settle in.
We realise we’ve been here before, on our way back from the islands out at sea 10 years earlier. It doesn’t look like much has changed, other than a newly built waterside path where tall, wooden ladder-type structures stand as a reminder to their Tuna fishing past.
Although the water’s here were popular for the Tuna fishing industry, this stopped back in the 1970’s.
The path leading beside the crystal-clear sea is quite breathtaking, it’s short and doesn’t really lead to anywhere, but looking down into the turquoise water is quite joyous. We went swimming here on our last trip. After coming across it by chance one August, the coast and heat was quite different to this damp, desolate evening in May.
Now, it’s time for a drink in the local taverna, supporting the locals and taking shelter from the rain. Inside, it seems most of the village are doing the same.
Next time, we drive down the coast towards the town of Senj where we find the most brilliant motorhome park up for the night.
