The Tizi n’Test pass in Morocco is a hair-raising route of about 140 miles, crossing the Atlas Mountains. This drive starts at Marrakesh and ends in Taroudant and we can’t wait to begin.
It’s a route we’ve seen in a book we use – ‘1001 Drives to experience before you die’. Slowly, we’re ticking off drives in countries from Australia and New Zealand to Europe, but this one in North Africa looks more dangerous than most.
Reaching the dizzy heights of 7000ft along narrow roads, where bends and no barriers are the norm and sheer drops terrifying.
Leaving Marrakesh
We’re setting off in the campervan early one morning, leaving chaotic Marrakesh on what should be an exhilarating drive.
Initially, the route is similar to other areas of Morocco, passing through a busy town where market day ensures full on concentration from the cab.
Then we begin to enter the less populated areas. The landscapes alter to a gradual winding road beside dramatic rocks and more remote feel.
Earthquake devastation – Tizi n’Test Pass in Morocco
Soon we become aware of temporary tent villages and portable office buildings. The road turns to a terrible surface where former tarmac beneath dirt and stone can sometimes be seen peeking through the dust.
Steep slopes where earth has slipped over the road run alongside us. An obvious area where landslides have been cleared, the cause of which must have been catastrophic.
It’s not long before we realise what’s happened. That’s because this area was struck by a 6.8 magnitude earthquake just months before, destroying villages and roads along much of the route.
We’d heard about the earthquake briefly in the news when it happened, but hadn’t realised its precise location and that we were now in the heart of the devastation.
Seeing this with our own eyes becomes a sobering reality.
Continue or turn back?
The road surface is now so bad, with miles of corrugations, ruts, and stones, ensuring a painfully slow, bumpy and noisy ride.
We pause for a moment, wondering if it’s too much to continue, remembering this is a long, dangerous route before the implications of earthquake damage. Shall we go on or do we turn back?
A chance encounter
Our decision comes from a chance encounter a couple of days earlier, at our overnight parking spot in Marrakesh.
Here we met a fellow British vanlifer, who mentioned he’d arrived at Marrakesh via what we presumed was the Tizi n’Tichka pass.
We remember him mentioning something about tents along the route and earthquake damage. The whole time we were puzzled, as there wasn’t any sign of this on the Tizi n’Tichka Pass, which we drove to Marrakesh from the desert days before.
Then, on this rugged road of the Tizi n’Test Pass, we realise we’d misunderstood which ‘Tizi’ route he was describing. Suddenly, it all makes perfect sense.
Our fellow Brit must have been talking about the Tizi n’Test drive and not the Tizi n’Tichka. So, if he drove it, then we can too – he was even driving a Sprinter 4×4, the same size camper as ours!
Slow progress – Tizi n’Test Pass in Morocco
Ok, so our decision to drive on has been made. Now all we have to do is take our time and try and enjoy it.
More makeshift tents are in the distance, along with countless portable buildings, set out on clearings of ground and some amongst the debris.
The destruction is all too apparent. We pass crumbling homes, mud and dirt tracks leading to temporary tent areas where children play. Cars are crushed, roads have become dirt tracks and ruins of buildings line the way.
The road conditions make for slow progress, where taking it easy is the best option.
Sharing the route
Of course, we’re not alone on this long, dangerous road over the mountains. Numerous old trucks working on earthquake repairs trundle along, as well as a few cars and old motorbikes.
Winding narrow sections with steep drops provide incredible mountain views, as we leave villages behind and enter a more remote area.
There are many obstacles along the way, including loose rocks scattered on the surface. Luckily, there’s little in the way of oncoming traffic, a real blessing in parts.
This terrain is harsh, the views breathtaking and the drive quite incredible. The road has become ever more winding, with no way of knowing if anything is coming the opposite way. It’s narrow, with little way for manoeuvre. Each bend brings heart-stopping moments, hoping we’re not meeting anything coming up the pass.
Glancing out the camper window, we can see where we’ve just driven, far below in the distance. The curves of the route winding round the mountain, while steep slopes drop down from our side into oblivion.
Summit winds – Tizi n’Test Pass in Morocco
At the summit there’s a small cafe, but strong winds prevent us from opening the camper door. It’s absolutely blowing a gale up here at 2100m high.
We take a photo through the window, it’s a shame but these parts often see bad weather conditions. Luckily for us, it’s only wind. This is not a drive we’d even think of doing in the rain or in Winter conditions.
Our early April visit is an ideal one. Spring blooms and the first buds of a new season are appearing.
The worse section is to come
There comes a section of this route when all becomes clear. Before us, just like a painting is a panoramic view of the road off this mountain.
It’s one of those moments that we have occasionally on a drive. Asking ourselves, ‘Wow’ “is that the road, surely we’re not having to go down there”?
Stretching out for miles into the distance, amongst the rocky landscape the road looks tiny. It’s winding, bending, slithering route looking almost impossible for us.
This down hill stretch looks like it’s never going to end. It’s one of those, ‘let’s get on with this’ moments. Unknowing if we’ll make it unscathed and hoping we’ll hold our nerve.
Just going for it
We know at times like this, we just have to get on with the drive. We’re here now, there’s no going back, so we’re just going for it regardless.
We work together, as usual, there’s a team element, looking out for obstacles on the surface, warning of anything in the distance and trying to read the road.
Herds of goats roam the high mountain road, with no people in sight. Rock falls have left large boulders and smaller rocks along the route. Dodging the obstacles along the way drives us closer to the steep drop at the edge of the road.
It’s narrow, winding and very high. Thank goodness, we only see a couple of vehicles and manage to pass in the best possible of places. This is no drive for those with nervous dispositions.
5 hours and counting – Tizi n’Test Pass in Morocco
The drive is phenomenal. Not only is it exhausting due to the nature of the construction coupled with earthquake damage, but it’s frightfully exhilarating at the same time.
However, it’s coming up to 5 hours and we’re still navigating the mountain, the sheer scale is difficult to comprehend.
The construction of these kind of roads never fails to amaze. Built by the French in the 1920’s, the Tizi n’Test is a superb example of construction within the harshest of terrains.
Finally, after our main descent from the summit, there comes into distant view a glimpse of a village.
There’s a lay-by, the first in a long time, where we can pull over and take a look at the view. The winds are less fierce down here and the outlook across dramatic terrain quite something.
Campsite stay
As our journey across the Tizi n’Test Pass in Morocco comes to its end, we think about finding a campsite stay for the night.
The town of Taroudant is approaching, which brings this mountain pass to our final destination. A walled city where Aragon oil and local crafts are some of the goods on offer.
We choose Camping Jardins to rest up, a neat little campsite on the edge to the town for 70 MAD (about £7).
This Tizi n’Test drive has been one we’ll never forget, it’s been quite an extraordinary journey, like no other.
